Te Toto Gorge

Walk 62, 1st April 2021

Te Toto Gorge is on a winding gravel road near Raglan, further up from the famous surfing spot at Manu Bay. It’s the shortest walk with the longest coastal views. The viewing platform is built over the top of the gorge. Looking down you’ll see a fertile, sheltered amphitheatre with the remains of terraced gardens and karaka groves.

The Matakore were regarded as uri of Maui who were cultivating Mt Karioi near Whaingaroa (Raglan) at the time Kupe arrived according to Te Aotearangi Wirihana in 1888.

From the late 1700s the Ngāti Māhanga tribe occupied surrounding land.

Te Toto means “the blood.” Te Toto may be linked to the deaths of the ancients of whom one old local (from about 1860) referred to when she indicated that the Raglan petroglyph rocks were made by the old ‘kings’ that were here before they arrived. See the article from Papers Past, dated 1869 below.

Walk: Waikato 21

Links

The history

STALACTITE CAVE AT RAGLAN PETRIFIED MAORIS. Star (Christchurch), Issue 429, 29 September 1869, Page 3

Raglan Recap, Tangata Whenua : “Now there is something else related to one of these rocks (since destroyed) for it revealed a large wet cave close by that penetrates into Mount Karuni (now called Karioi). Inside are a number of calcified skeletons, 87 in total. According to the reports of the eighteen hundreds, those that found this cave and these skeletons, were surprised to learn that the local Maori did not know of their existence…but there was a story of a very great leader who lived in the area long ago. He was here alright, and long before Maori arrived in the Tainui Canoe at Kawhia Harbour and began to roam the area before dominating and chasing the locals away.”

Tattooed rocks, near Raglan, 1911 – Photograph taken by Gilmour Brothers

Sidestep, Tangata Whenua, Te Toto Gorge : “However, we want to draw attention to some place names up and down the Waikato coastline. Many are about tragedy, burning, death and sorrow. At Raglan however we have Te Toto Gorge. It means blood or bleed. Yet there are no stories or myths relating to this location in Maori folklore. All that exists are the eroded earthworks that suggest it was occupied between about 1700 and 1800. But this area was the scene of something else many hundreds of years earlier.

The original inhabitants that lived in the area were chased and forced off the cliffs and plummeted to their deaths. There the bones have lain for hundreds of years near the base of the cliffs; still buried under constant rockfall and undergrowth.”

The first people and Kupe

Kupe and his people discovered people at various places. These people were the Mamoe, the Turehu, the Tahurangi, the Poke-pokewai, the Patupaiarehe, the Turepe and the Hamoamoa. They lived on the fronds and berries of the trees, and the roots of the earth. They were expert in preparing such foods, and in snaring and spearing the birds in forest and fish in stream. They also prepared food from the tender parts of the nikau, the tikoukou, the para and the mamaku (tree ferns).

Another name that people were called by was Te Tini-o-Toi-kai-rakau (the multitude of Toi, eater of trees). Toi being an ancestor of a section of that people. They dug the roots with long ko (spades), an implement unknown to the Maori before we came to those islands, and found those people just as Kupe had described them. Kupe was attacked by, and in return attacked those people of Karioi, near Raglan, and Aotea on the West Coast. These people were the Ngati-Matakore so-called, not the tribe of that name now living here in this island, who descend from us of “Tainui.”

Source: Volume 28 1919 > Volume 28, No. 110 > The account of Kupe and Tainui, by George Graham, p 111-116

Stone ruins

The gardens

Te Toto Gorge Raglan A historically significant site, the Te Toto Gorge south of Raglan, New Zealand not only boasts stunning and uninterrupted views of the rugged west coast, it also provides an insight into traditional Maori gardens.

We didn’t have time to walk down to the terraced gardens, but here’s some videos from Dave Horry, a man who explored the area.

Te Toto Te Toto (the blood) is a series of three coastal amphitheatres at the foot of Mt Karioi (the lingering).

Into Te Toto Going down into the Gorge, and exploring for an afternoon.

Abel Tasman

Explanation of Mt Karioi and Abel Tasman : Why Mount Karioi is important in the ‘Six Boats’ storyline.

Abel Tasman escapes from the South Taranaki Bight/Cook Strait/Tasman Bay and runs out to sea. Then he turns east, and sees land again on 28th December. The ‘high land’ he sees is marked on his chart. He sees Mount Karioi, on the coast just south of Raglan.

Whakatane

Walk 11: Whakatane, 19 Jan 2019

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Whakatane

Click here for the video

The walk starts off at the rock of Pohaturoa.  Matters of war and peace were discussed and debated here.  The rock now serves as a World War 1 memorial.

Most of the original cave in the rock has been replaced by a road.  The remaining arch has an ugly frame under it.

Desecration is the word that comes to mind when I look at what remains.  It’s a pity there wasn’t any forethought about preserving the landmarks when the town was planned out.  They should have listened to the Maori.

The town is pretty.  There’s a marina behind the main street where you could get on a tour for White Island.  (You can’t go there now because the volcano erupted in Dec 2019.)

left: Me at Pohuturoa rock and right: the entrance to Muriwai’s cave

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History:

Marae

In local Māori tradition, the Mātaatua waka (ocean-going canoe) was the first to land at Whakatane, approximately 700 years ago and many iwi can trace their origins to ancestors on the Mātaatua canoe.

Toroa, the captain of the Mataatua canoe, had been instructed by his father to look for three landmarks in his search for Whakatane – the Wairere Falls, Muriwai’s cave, and Irakewa rock.

“There is a land far away that is a good place for you to go to. There is a waterfall at that place and a cave in the hillside for Muriwai. The rock standing in the river is myself.”

Te Toka o Irakewa (Irakewa rock) was destroyed in by the harbour board in 1924.  The rock’s remains can be seen by the riverbank – but we did see Wairere Falls and Muriwai’s cave.

Walk: Bay of Plenty 15


Links

Historic Trail

Whakatane Historical Society

Pōhaturoa, a rock in the centre of Whakatāne, is now a memorial to those who fell in the First World War. But long before this the rock was a sacred place for Ngāti Awa. In its tunnel (once a cave) young warriors were tattooed, and in the nearby Waiewe Stream newborn children were immersed in a form of baptism. Twelve Ngāti Awa chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi here on 12 June 1840.

Toi

“Ngāti Awa are the descendants of Te Tini o Toi, the original inhabitants of the region, and the people of Mataatua waka.”

According to Elsdon Best, the task of Ngati-Awa when dwelling at Whakatane, Ohiwa, and Opotiki was continuous fighting against Maruiwi and Ngati-Ruatamore.

Unfortunately this iwi, along with other Maori, believe they own the water.  Their website contains this statement in Maori: “We, the indigenous people of Mataatua, believe that the freshwater of this country is a legacy from our ancestors, down to the generations that live in this changing world, and to the rising generations.”  

In New Zealand, no-one owns the water.  If we tried to make it so all New Zealanders owned the water, the Maori will say the water is theirs, and ownership would turn into a political hot potato.

Chinese bottling plants like Nongfu Spring take advantage of “no-one owning the water.”  They take it for cents on the dollar and turn into plastic.  This is how the Resource Management Act is exploited by foreigners.

“It’s really, really difficult for an everyday New Zealander to navigate this kind of system when the government is relying on us, as citizens, to uphold the RMA. If you look at it, they spend $30 million a year enticing overseas companies to come here, but only spend less than a million supporting everyday kiwis who are fighting gross consents like this in court. It’s diabolical really.”  Source: Community takes fight against water bottling plant to High Court


1818 – Bay of Plenty Ravaged: Episode 25 (Musket Wars #7)  In January 1818 Te Morenga, a Ngapuhi chief, lead a war party to the Bay of Plenty. A month later, Hongi Hika lead another war party to the same area.  The Bay of Plenty became a killing ground as the musket armed Ngapuhi wreak havoc on local Maori.