Nga Taupuwae O Toi: Kaputerangi / Toi’s Pa

Walk #196,
First attempt: 10th January 2023
Second attempt: 30th July 2026

The Nga Tapuwae o Toi trail means the Footsteps of Toi, named after the Māori chief who ruled the area around 800 years ago.

After two attempts to find this section of the walk from Seaview Road in Whakatane, we gave up and drove there.

The walk can be started at Pohaturoa Rock where a vertigraph – a series of steps with art and different sayings – goes up the hill. It’s not as interesting when you get to the site of the old redoubt or the old pa site at Puketapu at the top of the hill at Seaview Road – there’s nothing to see there, but at least the grass is mowed on Puketapu.

I have yet to find the walk from Seaview Road to Toi’s Pa / Kaputerangi. I must have missed the entrance to the walk off the street. We were running out of time so we didn’t look hard enough.

The view from Toi’s Pa / Kaputerangi is fabulous. You can see for miles. White Island is south-east, north-east is Whale Island, Whakatane and the river and north-west is Mount Edgecombe.

A friendly fantail accompanied us around the site. I’ve never had one come that close, it was most insistent it be noticed. The Maori name for fantail is Tiwakawaka.

I believe this is one of New Zealand’s oldest pa sites. Apparently Kaputerangi means the “Pa of Gentle Breezes”, but a friend from the Ngati Porou tribe tells me Kaputerangi was a giant.

Walk: Bay of Plenty 13

Whakatane

Nga Tapuwae o Toi Fairbrother Loop Track

Links

Kāpū-te-rangi (Pā of Toi)

Te Ara Story: First peoples in Māori tradition |Toi’s pā, Kaputerangi

These are the instructions from Whakatane, according to DOC:
Mokorua Gorge to Toi Pā
Time: 1 hr 30 min

Easy walking. This is the best starting point for the round trip. Walkers should head north from Mokorua Gorge along Commerce Street, turning right just before Pohatoroa (the Rock) to climb the escarpment steps leading to Hillcrest Road. Turn left onto Seaview Road to find the track leading to Kapu-te-rangi.

Soon after leaving the road, the track passes the head of Wairere Falls. After climbing through an area of attractive regenerating bush, Kapu-te-rangi is on the right. From this pā, continue north-east, the track follows the cliff top above Whakatāne, skirting a number of pā sites. Toward the tip of Kohi Point, the track emerges onto an area of low scrub and flax land and then follows the cliff tops to the south-east. Superb coastal vies are obtained throughout this section, but for your safety please stay to the track.
Source: DOC, Ngā Tapuwae o Toi Walkway

Nga Tapuwae o Toi Fairbrother Loop Track

Walk #195, 30th July 2026

This is a pohutukawa forest at Ohope where kiwi are thriving. There are views out to White Island along the track.

The track forms part of the larger Nga Tapuwae O Toi track which goes from Whakatane to Ohope.

Walk: Bay of Plenty 14

Related walk:

Tauwhare Pa, Ohope

Otanewainuku, Bay of Plenty

Walk #194, 11th April 2026

Otanewainuku rises to 640m high and is covered in virgin forest. A loop track leads to the lookout tower which is too overgrown to give spectacular views. We were fortunate while up there to meet Patricia, a fit and inspirational local who regularly climbs the track to the summit for exercise.

We started the track clockwise and met a little robin on our way up. There are kiwi in the forest as well.

The walk was done the day before Cyclone Vaianu arrived in the Bay of Plenty. We did the Rimu Loop walk on 17th December 2025.

Walk: Bay of Plenty 10

Links

Ōtanewainuku Forest

Otanewainuku Ecological District

Kiwi Trust:
LEGEND

Meaning of name Ōtānewainuku:
This sacred mountain of Waitaha is 645m high with many settlements located on and around
it. Ōtānewainuku is the headwater of many local streams and its name means “the many
waters that spring forth from the domain of Tāne (the god of the forests)”. Another definition
is “the mountain of the parting waters, where the clouds meet the land, and the rain leaves the
sky.” Source: waitaha-iwi.org.nz

Te Koutu Lake, Cambridge

Walk #193, 9th April 2026

Te Koutu Lake, or ‘Lake Te Koo Utu” is located in the town of Cambridge. The name of the lake loosely translates as ‘to scoop up water.’ The trees and gardens were established in the 1880s. There are two tracks, the upper track leads to a rotunda, recreation area and conservatory while the lower track goes around the lake.

The lake was formed indirectly from the last major eruption of Lake Taupo around 1800 years ago, when tonnes of debris swept down the Waikato River and blocked off many side streams. Here, water backed up behind the debris dam and formed this small lake.

In the 1880s the Cambridge Domain Board took responsibility for the area. Gradually they converted the gorse and manuka covered land into a park filled with chestnuts, elms and gum trees. Carp and catfish were let loose in the lake and white swans were released too but failed to establish.

It’s a good place to break the journey between Auckland and Rotorua. The best times to visit would be May when the trees are turning red and golden, our walk on April 9th was a bit early for that. The other time is summer when the water lilies are out.

Walk: Waikato 9

Links

There’s a lovely statue of a horse and foal in Victoria St, Cambridge

Cambridge Museum: Mare and Foal

Equine find in Town Hall

Te Ahua Point, Piha, Auckland

Walk #192 8th April 2026

The lookout is situated between Karekare and Piha beaches. The views weren’t great, we couldn’t see Lion Rock because cyclone Vaianu was on its way from Fiji.

We didn’t realise at first we were walking on a pa site related to the ancient Turehu. The inhabitants of this ancient pa lived on the cliffs either from fear of people or fear of a tsunami.

The full name of Te Ahua Point is ‘Te Ahua O Hinerangi.’ Hinerangi was a Turehu ancestress. A pou (carved pole) dedicated to a descendant of the same name looks out toward the Tasman Sea. This Hinerangi died of a broken heart after losing her husband to a rogue wave while fishing on the rocks at Piha.

The info board maintains the site was one of those chosen by the ancestors of Te Kawau a Maki who lived here for its position and proximity to Hikurangi. Hikurangi was the name given to the main mountainous range that formed part of Te Wao nui a Tiwa, the great forest of Tiriwa. Tiriwa was the chief of the Waitakere Turehu.

The ancestors of Te Kawau a Maki are the Turehu, a pre-Maori people. Their hair colours ranged from white and dull-golden, with red being predominant in the general population. There were also shades of brown through to black. Braided samples of this multi-coloured hair (taken from the Waitakere rock shelters) used to be on display at Auckland War Memorial Museum and were written about by Maori Historian, Sir Peter Buck.

There is more about the Turehu here, under the heading ‘Waitakere Turehu, Auckland‘ …

The Pre Waka Peoples, Patupaiarehe and Turehu

There is a radar station at the site. In 1948 two pioneering radio astronomers determined for the first time the source of radio waves from outside the solar system. The radio signals were identified as coming from three stars, Taurus-A, Centaurus-A and Virgo-A. Taurus-A is the remnant of the famous Crab Nebula, a super nova in the constellation of Taurus which exploded in 1054 AD.

Walk: Auckland 21

Links

Clues about the ancient inhabitants of Te Ahua Pa

Te Kawerau

About 15 years before Captain James Cook arrived, Ngati Whatua took over the Tamaki isthmus by warfare (note: Maori land ownership kept changing as tribes grew stronger) and yet even then, the Kawerau in the Waitakere’s were still recognised as the iwi whenua of the Waitakere when others such as the Maruiwi and Waiohua became extinct or absorbed into Ngati-Whatua, (In effect, they became the same as Maori absorbed into European bloodlines today – if you think about it!). The remnants of the Kawerau lived in Mahurangi and Omaha after these times. Source: The Kawerau

“Te Kawerau ā Maki are a West Auckland-based iwi. Our origins arise through whakapapa to the first human inhabitants of the land – the Tūrehu, and descent from the early migratory people to settle the region, such as the Tini ō Maruiwi and Te Tini ō Toi, to the arrival of the Tainui, Aotea, Moekakara, Tokomaru, Kahuitara, and Kurahaupo canoes in the 14th century, and the Ngati Awa, Ngāoho, and Ngāiwi people who occupied the wider area prior to 1600.” Source: Te Kawerau a Maki

Matiatia Historic Reserve, Waiheke Island

Walk #191, 5th April 2026

The walk begins to the north of the ferry terminal at Matiatia. The first ten minutes of the walk is along the beach and it’s best to go either side of low tide.

The picturesque views include Rangitoto Island and downtown Auckland. The track passes some of the island’s most expensive houses with their manicured gardens and sculptures. There’s an interesting dog made of timber at Cable Bay.

It’s a slog up a lot of steps at Cable Bay until you get to Delamore Drive. The road has a gate which you pass through and after that a long track downhill track leads back to the ferry terminal at Matiatia.

Walk: Waiheke 50

Links

History of Waiheke Island

Mr. George Graham tells the story of Waiheke Island. The ancient Maori name of Waiheke was Te Motu-arai-roa {the long sheltering island), because it acted as a break-wind or shelter against the open ocean storms and winds of the outer Hauraki Gulf. The name Waiheke (cascade waters) was the name of a creek on the Onetangi (murmuring sands) beach, and formerly a favourite landing place. In pioneering days that became a general name for the island itself.

The earliest inhabitants were the Maruiwi, a people from the Western Pacific, who settled here about 950 A.D. The local tribe of that people were the UriKaraka (descendants of Karaka, a Maruiwi ancestor). These people are traditionally remembered as expert makers of nets and as fishermen. They fought with the kopere (throwing spear), and fearlessly navigated these waters in frail catamarans or rafts (mokihi) of interlaced flax stalks and raupo leaves. Their sails were of the same materials. They seemed to have been a numerous and industrious people cultivating only the hue or gourd, which they are said to have introduced into this country.

Toi found the Maruiwi very numerous and not too friendly. He at last sailed away and settled at Whakatane, which was his objective. Some of his crew settled down, intermarrying with the Maruiwi. About 1200 A.D. a party of Toi’s people, with their chief, Maeaea, accepted an invitation to a Maruiwi feast at Omaru (near Awaawaroa). There they were murdered, the victims being enmeshed in hand nets and then speared to death, that being the Maruiwi method of attack. Hence the name of that locality is still Te Rore-a-Maeaea (the snaring of Maeaea). This incident led to a punitive campaign against the Maruiwi tribe at Waiheke, who were conquered, a remnant only being spared as wives or as slaves.

The Maruiwi were replaced by the people of Toi, who were replaced by the people of Arawa, who were replaced by the people of Maki. Then came Ngati Whatua, and Ngati-Huarere. The owners of Waiheke, who remained such until European times, were of the tribe of Paoa.

Source: New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19779, 28 October 1927, Page 13

Waiheke Island: Stony Batter

Walk #190, 4th April 2026

Stony Batter is at the end of Man O’War Bay road. It’s an impressive remnant of New Zealand’s coastal defense system. While very little remains above ground, the rooms and tunnels below ground are really well preserved.

The walk along the gravel road past farmland and grape vines gives sweeping views of the Hauraki Gulf out to the Coromandel peninsula.

The area takes its name from distinctive rock formations that are the remnants of two ancient volcanos.

There is a charge to enter the batter, in order to maintain the site. The historic site was built in 1942 and finished after the war. It’s managed by the archaeologist leasing it.

Walk: Waiheke 48

Links

Stoney Batter Tunnels: Explore the Underworld

Waiheke Island: Stony Batter Tunnels

Waiheke Island: Whakanewha Regional Park

Walk #189 3rd April 2026

A walk through a rare patch of bush on the southern coast of Waiheke Island. Although Waiheke Island is the Hauraki Gulf’s second biggest island, it’s been intensively farmed and very little bush remains. The forest on this walk consisted mainly of punga, kohekohe and taraire trees. I didn’t see any kauri trees.

The walk was ho-hum and not well sign-posted.

The best forests on Waiheke Island are on private land. We carried on to the Man O’War Forest Zip-line where we got to walk and fly through big stands of kauri. I recommend the experience.

I give the walk a low rating because of the lack of signage. It was supposed to be ‘the School Loop Track’ but I couldn’t find it.

Walk: Waiheke 49

Murphy’s Bush, Auckland

Walk #188, 1st April 2026

Murphy’s Bush in the Auckland suburb of Flatbush at 26 hectares is the largest remaining lowland bush remnant in Auckland. The forest used to have fields all around it until a population the size of my city got jammed into the area.

The reserve is now an oasis in a featureless desert of high density housing. It would be interesting to see who stayed after the bulldozers razed the original houses. Apart from the bush and the old Flatbush School Hall, the area has been completely transformed, in accordance with the neo-liberal “new Auckland plan.” The culture and character of the original community has been lost.

I am glad Murphys Bush is protected. The forest was preserved and gifted to the Manukau City Council in 1981 by the Murphy family. The reserve is divided by a road, most is on the left of Murphy’s Road. It’s a haven for birds and for people who want a quiet place to walk.

What I did notice in this tiny bush remnant was the bird noise. We could hear the native birds, unlike the silent forests managed by DOC. Unlike other countries, DOC uses cruel 1080 poison for pest control, killing the birds along with the predators. We’ve noted the difference on our walks.

Walk: Auckland 42

Links

Wikipedia – Murphy’s Bush

As one of Auckland’s newest housing areas, Flat Bush complies with the aims of the new Auckland Plan which calls for more medium and high density housing. As a result, the area is taking on an “exciting but very different look” from the traditional quarter acre pavlova paradise of old New Zealand.
East Auckland Tourism

Stancombe Cottage
The small heritage cottage was moved from its site next to the Buddhist temple on Stancombe Road in 2011 and restored by Howick Local Board for community use.
Stancombe Cottage

2016
“A concrete carpet is being rolled over the former paddocks of Flat Bush, in Auckland’s south east.
The city has spread to make room for its growing population and as newcomers – many from China and India – moved to Flat Bush en mass, original dwellers have had to adapt or abscond.
Most lifestyle blocks on its urban fringe have already been snapped up by local and Chinese property developers, who have granted temporary leases to residents before bulldozers take over.”
Stuff: Flat Bush: Auckland’s big new town
In the article one of the original residents, an elderly man named Elton asked neighbours to help with the search for his dog Sophie, “but not one of them spoke English.”

Te Henui Walkway

Walk #187 Te Henui Walkway, 21st Feb 2026

This walkway follows the Te Henui river. It was a serene stroll rich in history. The first thing we learned was the meaning of Te Henui.

To Maori, warfare was both an integral part of their political system and a response to offenses or crimes of any kind. Between the late 1700s and early 1800s the tribes of the Taranaki region were in regular conflict with various tribes from the Waikato region.

According to the story that has been handed down through generations it was during an expected battle with Waikato that the Henui stream was given its name.

The Taranaki iwi travelled along the coast to help defend the local Atiawa tribe from Waikato which was nearing their boundaries. They arrived around nightfall and headed towards Te Henui. Scouts from Te Atiawa saw them and mistook them for the enemy. Intense hand to hand conflict erupted in the dark from one riverbank to the other. It wasn’t until daylight that each party realised they were fighting their own allies. There were significant losses experienced on both sides.

Hence the meaning of Te Henui, “the big mistake.”

There are two pa sites on the walk. The first was Pukewarangi, crowned with some pines, which we explored.

The second was Parihamore, a pa site further along the path.

During the 18th century a beautiful young woman named Urukinaki resided at Parihamore Pa. She attracted attention from men all over Taranaki including Potaka, a chief of the Puketapu hapu from the Bellblock area.

Urukinaki considered Potaka too old and ugly and was not the least bit interested in him. Angry and insulted, Potaka laid siege to Parihamore. The siege dragged on until starvation was imminent and Urukinaki surrendered for the sake of her tribe.

Crossing the path underneath the Cumberland Street Bridge we walked back along the other side of the stream.

The path led past the other side of the Parihamore pa site to the historic Te Henui cemetery and from there it rejoined the path along the stream.

Walk: Taranaki 5

The walk was busy at times with cyclists who I can’t always hear on the path, but I rate it as a solid four.

Links

Te Henui Vicarage
Associated with the earliest period of European settlement in New Plymouth, the vicarage is one of the relatively few buildings in New Plymouth that was not demolished during the Taranaki Wars, signifying the esteem that the building had also with local Maori.

Te Henui Walkway: Explore New Plymouth’s Scenic 2-Hour Riverbank Trail

Soldier’s grave; one of the graves we looked at.

Capt. AR Close 43 Regt. Killed Warea July 1865, circa 1860, maker unknown. Purchased 1916. Te Papa (O.012378)

Taranaki has a complicated past – you can read the history here from an earlier walk:
Pukekura Park / Brooklands Park, New Plymouth