Pukekura Park / Brooklands Park, New Plymouth

Walk #141, 23rd November 2024

These are two beautiful parks in New Plymouth connected to one another. Brooklands park has a rich history. There are historic trees, a 2000 year old Puriri and a very old Ginko tree.

There’s a colonial hospital building from the 1840s, a chimney from a homestead burned down in the Taranaki Land Wars of the 1860s, a zoo, and the Brooklands bowl where people go for outdoor concerts.

Pukekura park has the tearooms, fountains, waterfall and three picturesque lakes framed by trees, gardens and red bridges.

Walk: Taranaki 7

Hospitals

After the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, Māori leaders petitioned government for hospitals. Funding for Māori hospitals was allocated in 1846 and the first hospitals were commissioned. The first public hospital in New Zealand opened in Wellington in 1847. Māori use of hospitals was evident from the outset.

Te Ara NZ: Establishment of hospitals in New Zealand

The Gables (above) is the sole survivor of four public hospitals built in the period.

History of the land

New Plymouth and Taranaki have a history of conflict. While we hear all about Te Whiti and Parihaka, and the nonviolent protest against land confiscation and colonial domination in the 1860s and 1880s, we never about the massacre at Tataraimaka. Tataraimaka was taken possession of in the early 1860s by right of conquest from the Europeans, who were all driven off.

I think Parihaka is great, it ended non violently and without injury except for a foot which was accidentally stood on. I talked about it with a Ngati Awa man a couple of years ago. He wasn’t aware of the European refugees from Taranaki who’d been driven off their farms and wound up in Nelson. We need history from both sides.

The following was taken from a letter by the Rev. Samuel Ironside and reprinted in the Taranaki Herald 27 June 1863;

In 1838 the whole district in question, embracing 100 miles of coastland, was depopulated. There were not more than twenty to thirty souls left there. The Waikato tribes and those further north, had overrun the place ; hundreds of the people had been killed and eaten, hundreds more had been carried into slavery by their victors, hundreds more had been driven into exile towards Cook’s Strait and Queen Charlotte’s Sound. The above twenty or thirty were all that were left in occupation.

The chiefs all signed the deed of sale. Among the parties to the sale was Wiremu Kingi who turned violent and rebellious. He was then called E Witi. They were all too glad to sell the land, and get payment for it, as they dare not return to occupy it for fear of Waikato.

Waikato

When the Waikatos heard of the sale of land which they claimed by right of conquest, they threatened vengeance against the remnant of Taranakis, and a war party of several hundreds started off to exterminate them. The missionaries including Ironside succeeded in preventing bloodshed; but the Waikato chiefs then and there asserted and maintained their rights of ownership of the conquered territory. His Excellency Captain Hobson, then Governor, in satisfaction of their claim, gave Potatau (afterwards Potatau I) £400.

So abundant payment had been made for the disputed lands — first, by the New Zealand Company to the original owners, and afterwards by the New Zealand Company to the Waikato chiefs.

In the years 1843-44, Mr Spain, then Queen’s Commissioner, after careful and patient investigation, determined that the district of Taranaki had been fairly purchased and accordingly awarded to the province the whole block extending north and south of the town, including both Waitara and Tataraimaka.

New Plymouth

The settlers came, and New Plymouth was built.

But the natives, exiled by war, returned home by degrees, now that Europeans were there as a
protection; and the Waikato chiefs allowed many of their Taranaki slaves to return. These persons began to clamour and dispute, a thing they dared not before. Ample reserves, suitably situated, had been made for the native residents but the Taranaki natives were dissatisfied, and threatened to drive all the settlers from their holdings.

In the early 1840s Captain FitzRoy, then Governor, partly in pursuance of the mischievous policy of puffing off the evil day, and partly to embarrass the New Zealand Company, that was not in high favour at home, arbitrarily set aside the award of the Queen’s Commissioner, gave back the land to the natives, and told every settler in the Waitara and neighbourhood that they remained there at their own peril — he could not and would not protect them from the natives.

The settlers were driven off their farms.

Captain FitzRoy was sacked and George Grey inherited the mess. He was instructed to take steps at once, by further payments, to acquire these lands for the province. Some of these lands were so acquired, by a further purchase; among them was Tataraimaka, where a massacre of officers and men of the 57th would later take place.

The pressure on the Maori to sell land

But the violent natives had found out their power, and ably have they used it. A large proportion of the natives were peaceable and friendly, and were anxious to sell some of their lands, in order to have European neighbours, and a profitable market close to their doors, for their pigs, potatoes, and corn. These have been overawed, and, to use an expressive, but appropriate term, bullied by the rebels, and thus prevented from exercising their rights of ownership.

As the Pākehā population of New Zealand increased during the 1850s, Māori faced growing pressure to sell their land.

In 1852 a league was formed by these overbearing natives, binding each other not to sell lands to the Government, and threatening death to any chief who should dare to do so. The peaceable natives refused to enter into this league, and have from time to time urged the Government to purchase, saying that the land was the fruitful source of quarrel among themselves, and for peace sake they wished to alienate. The league, however, have ever been strong enough to prevent Government from entertaining their proposals.

War

War broke out between the league and those who wanted to sell. Sometimes the farms of the settlers were made the battleground of the parties. The unoffending settlers were in continual anxiety and fear, and frequently suffered loss.

In 1859 Governor Gore Browne got involved. He had a large meeting of natives in the town of New Plymouth; declared that as British Governor he would protect all of them, in their rights; that he had no wish to purchase any of their lands about which they were quarrelling; that he would not buy any lands, the title of which was disputed; but that if any of them were anxious to sell and could prove their title, they certainly should sell; he would protect them.

Wiremu Kingi (E Witi) of the league blocked the sales. He said ‘that no Maori owned land, the land was owned by all the people to be used communally and individually and not to be possessed. Under Maori custom no land could be sold without the consent of all the people. As leader he must make a decision in accordance with the people’s demands.

The Governor had paid £100 as part purchase money, and surveyors were sent to lay the block out. The land leaguers resisted the survey, and appealed to the native king, Potatau, who espoused their cause.

By 1863 the former productive farms had became overrun with Scotch thistle and other noxious weeds because the natives were not being able to cultivate one-tenth of the land.

Tataraimaka

The Tataraimaka pā was left empty after the pā was sacked by a party of northern Māori during the Musket Wars, shortly before 1820. The Tataraimaka Block of land was purchased from Māori in 1847, and was the location where 200 men of the 65th Regiment were stationed during the First Taranaki War, from April to June 1860.

Martial law was declared and the settlement of Tataraimaka, twelve miles south of the town, was taken possession of by the natives, by right of conquest from the Europeans, who had all been driven off. Many settlers were murdered, some killed in war, a large number died through disease and exposure, and the district was held since 1860 by the rebel tribes.

Tataraimaka was returned to government control in early 1865.

Source: Appendix 1, The War in New Zealand, page 282 to 286.

Related post

Pukerangiora Pa, Taranaki – another battle ground

Confiscating land to pay for the war in the 1860s was a really bad idea, but in 1878 an offer was made to return the confiscated land to Waikato Maori. The offer was refused.

Source: Kapiti Coast Independent: Revising NZ History 5: Wiremu Kingi at Waitara

Links

Pukekura Park and Brooklands Park

Pukekura Park and Brooklands

Pukekura Park Planting Timeline

Hinehopu / Hongi’s Track

Walk #140,19th October 2024

This is a two hour return walk between two of the lakes of Rotorua. The walk starts at Korokitewao Bay at Lake Rotoiti and ends at Lake Rotoehu.

In 1823 Hongi Hika attacked Arawa in Rotorua. He had muskets and he was bent on revenge. They dragged their war canoes from Lake Rotoehu across to Lake Rotoira using the track as a portage, and from there through a canal into Lake Rotorua.

Hongi also attacked Te Koutu pa at Lake Okataina.

A small loop track leads to Hinehopu’s tree, a sacred matai at the side of SH30. Hinehopu was hidden here as a baby and it’s where she met her husband to be, Pikiao. (This is from a different time and not related to Hongi Hika’s attack on Rotorua).

Hinehopu’s Matai tree

Korokitewao Bay, Lake Rotoira, where the track begins

Walk: Rotorua 28

Related walk

Lake Okataina

One of Hongi’s war canoes was made into a pataka that is now at Te Papa. See the walk at Papaitonga Scenic Reserve, Levin where the pataka from Te Takinga, Lake Rotoiti ended up before being donated to the Dominion Museum.

Links

Hinehopu/Hongi’s Track

Te Arawa tribes today include Ngāti Pikiao, Tūhourangi and Ngāti Whakaue

On the point on the left hand as the bay is entered, where the trees dip their thirsty branches so low that they touch the water, once stood Te Ari kainga, a village of the ancient lake people …

A Tale From Old Rotoiti

Te Ara Manawa Walkway, Rawene

Walk #130, 3rd May 2024

This walk was done in two parts over four years. We were visiting Rawene in the Hokianga harbour while holidaying in 2020 between lockdowns and just before my cancer treatment. Unfortunately the Mangrove board walk closed for maintenance. I wasn’t sure I’d ever get there again, but we made it back in 2024 just before sunset.

The video above shows the town, historic buildings, spoonbills feeding in the estuary, and a cat in the shop which is next to the post office boxes. I recommend the Boatshed cafe.

The video below features the Te Ara Manawa Walkway, and a cat. The cats at Rawene are very welcoming.

Te Ara means a path and manawa is the Maori word for mangrove.

Walk: Northland 21

Links

The Clendon Papers have been included in the UNESCO Memory of the World Aotearoa New Zealand programme that recognises significant documentary heritage. Much of the nationally significant collection is still housed at Clendon House in Rawene, Northland.

Kerikeri Basin

Walk #124, 30th April 2024

This has everything – history, a river walk and waterfalls. Also a cafe in the historic beekeepers house which is right next door to the oldest house in NZ, the Kemp House. The Kemp house was built in 1822 and the Stone Store was built in 1835. There’s a heritage orchard and cottage garden flowerbeds which the cafe uses. The garden has been in operation for over 200 years.

The Mission (Kemp House) was deliberately established next to Kororipo pa (see below), the home of Hongi Hika. Without his patronage and protection, the mission had little chance of survival. No doubt the people in the pa kept a good eye on the coming and goings of the Pakeha living there and reported back to Hongi.

The heritage park is enchanting, even down to the friendly goose who greeted me waggling his tail feathers. The river walk has a historic power station, rock formations and two waterfalls.

Kerikeri Basin, the old Beekeepers House with Kemp House next door

Link

Kerikeri Mission Station (Kemp House)

Kerikeri stone store

Stone Store

Kerikeri’s Kemp House – the oldest building in NZ – turns 200

Kerikeri’s hidden waterfall trails: The network of tracks linking five spectacular cascades

Kororipo Pa

This site was the pa of Hongi Hika, the paramount chief of the north. From here they could keep an eye on everyone, including the Pakeha at the mission across the inlet.

Walking around Kororipo Pa in the quiet of the Kerikeri Basin, I imagined what it was like in the past. In the early 19th century the Ngapuhi tribe controlled the Bay of Islands, the first point of contact for most Europeans visiting New Zealand.

Looking at the historic Mission (Kemp House) and Stone Store across the inlet, New Zealand’s oldest buildings, I wondered about the two cultures that had existed side by side. How did they do it?

Read more …

Links

Kororipo Pa Historic Walk

Hongi Hika

Picture by By S. Percy Smith – Source: Wikepedia https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12799208

Missionaries and muskets at Kerikeri – Roadside Stories

Kerikeri marks 200 years of bicultural founding

Te Ahurea: Historic Kerikeri

Te Ahurea: The WarLords

Wreck of the Hydrabad

Walk #116, 6th Feb 2024

The Hydrabad was a sailing ship that was driven ashore during a wild storm in 1878.

When I first saw the wreck nearly a century later in 1976, it was still on the beach, its beams of timber embedded in the sand. 

Now in 2024 it’s almost covered by a sand dune. A blue pole marks the spot, otherwise you’d never find it. 

The west coast beach between Wellington and Wanganui is as lovely as I remember, with grey sand rather than black sand.

Walk: Manawatu 29

The village of Waiterere Beach keeps alive the memory of the Hydrabad.

Links

Classic Kiwi holiday spots that no longer exist: Hydrabad Shipwreck

Hydrabad (1865-1878) Wreck Site

Te Namu Pa, Opunake, Taranaki

Walk #114, 2nd January 2024

This historic pa site is located at Opunake. The walk begins at Opunake Cemetery.

Te Namu pa is the site of a battle between Taranaki and Waikato. After the defeat and scattering of the Taranaki tribe at Maru in 1826, a large number of them migrated to Kapiti. But still there were a few left—not more than one hundred and fifty fighting men—and these, on the news of the approach of Waikato, gathered into their fortified pa of Te Namu, and stored it with a plentiful supply of provisions and water. There they held off a force of 800 Waikato.

The principal chief of Taranaki, who was appointed to conduct the operations in defence of the pa, was Wi Kingi Mata-katea. There was only one musket in the pa, and that belonged to him. His aim never failed; a man fell each time he discharged his gun—even if half a mile off —so long as he could see his man, he shot him.

Source: NZETC Siege of Te Namu, June 1833

Mata means eye so Mata-katea’s name probably translates as having a keen or accurate eye.

Although the site has a rich history we felt there was more to learn.

Walk: Taranaki 12

Petroglyphs

The history of the pa as known to the writer (Griffin) including finding a partly buried stone on which there was a petroglyph. Who knows where that’s gone. There were petroglyphs along the Taranaki coast. The rock was probably marked by the Waitaha or Te Kahui Maunga people.

Source: Erin M. Griffin, Tales of Te Namu and Hori Teira

Opunake

Opunake – Historical notes collection

Wellington Waterfront

Walk #108 13th November 2023

Having worked without having a holiday for ten months, we took three days off in the nation’s capital. The waterfront was our first walk, starting at Oriental Bay. It was windy afternoon, typical of Wellington.

Walk #109 Wellington By Night

We were going to continue this walk by doing a pub crawl back to our hotel. There was a smart bar and restaurant in Wellington’s oldest wharf building, Shed 5. But we decided not to go in after seeing the price of the beer.

People sitting at tables outside a restaurant near Shed 5 looked quite happy, while I was wondering how they could stand the cold wind. “They must be used to it,” we decided as we walked along with our shoulders hunched.

We carried on to the Thistle, Wellington’s oldest pub. It was established in 1840. My Grandmother’s great-grandparents arrived in 1839 (The Bengal Merchant) and 1840 (The Lord William Bentinck), just before the inn was established. I imagine they’d have been familiar with the place.

The wooden floor of the historic pub has a glass panel where you can see into the cellar.

The Thistle has a story that Te Rauparaha used to pull up in his canoe when the inn was on the foreshore and no-one dared charge him for his drinks.

We abandoned the walk after our meal as it had grown dark outside and we’d had enough of the cold wind, so we cheated and took a bus back to our hotel.

Walk: Wellington 23 and 24

Links

The Thistle Inn – good food, good service, nice wine.

History of Pukeahu

Pukeahu was a cone shaped hill which sits between two dominant ridgelines. The first, Te Ranga a Hiwi, extends from Point Jerningham (Orua-kai-kuru) up to Matairangi (Mount Victoria), then runs south to Haewai (Houghton Bay) and Uruhau, above Island Bay. The other ridgeline runs from Te Ahumairangi (Tinakori Hill) to Te Kopahou (Red Rocks) on the south coast.

Te Kāhui Maunga

The first tangata whenua of this area are said to have been Te Kāhui Maunga, who have also been called Kāhui Tipua and Maruiwi.

Ngāi Tara

Ngāi Tara was the first iwi to settle in this area. Possibly as early as the late 13th century, its Ngāti Hinewai hapū (subtribe) established the major pā (fortified village) of Te Akatarewa on the slopes of the hill Europeans named Mount Alfred, above where Wellington College and Wellington East Girls’ College are today …

Source: History of Pukeahu

Hukutaia Domain, Opotiki, Bay of Plenty

Walk #104, 11th January 2023

This is a much loved bush reserve. Formerly part of Woodlands Estate, Hukutaia Domain was gifted to the people of Opotiki by E.M.Hutchinson. In 1918 it was set aside as a reserve, mainly to protect Taketakerau, an ancient burial tree which was once the final resting place of the ancestral remains of the Te Upokorehe iwi. The puriri tree was highly tapu (sacred, forbidden to touch).

Taketakerau is over 2000 years old. In 1913 after the tree was damaged in a storm, a large cache of bones was discovered hidden deep within the hollow of the old tree. After the tree was damaged the remains were buried elsewhere.

As well as the puriri burial tree and mighty tawa trees, the reserve has rare plants and abundant bird life. This is the noisiest reserve we’ve walked through as far as the birds go, probably because the pests and predators are kept down.

I give the reserve a triple A – for ancient, atmospheric and amazing.

I recommend this walk.

Walk: Bay of Plenty 19

Cooks Cove Walkway

Walk #101, 8th January 2023

Captain James Cook stopped here in 1769 as part of his circumnavigation of New Zealand. As well as it being historic, there’s a hole-in-the-wall which I didn’t get good photos of because of the rain.

Unfortunately we didn’t enjoy the walk as much as we could have, due to the weather. The country was being lashed by Cyclone Hale to the north and we got very wet.

This is what it’s like in fine weather:

https://panograffiti.com/pan/87-Cooks-Cove-Walkway-near-Tolaga-Bay

Walk: Gisborne District #4

Links

Cooks Cove Walkway

100% NZ, Cooks Cove Walkway

Cooks Cove Brochure

History

Story: European discovery of New Zealand

Te Aitangi-a-Hauiti

Unlike the hostile and aggressive Gisborne (Turanga) Maori, this tribe welcomed Captain Cook. It was the first positive meeting between Maori and Pakeha. Te Aitangi-a-Hauiti acknowledges the time of Cook’s voyage as the pre-cursor of a dual heritage and shared future.

For centuries the iwi (tribe) of Te Aitangi-a-Hauiti has occupied Tolaga Bay. What’s interesting about this tribe is they’ve been in the land for so long they don’t have a waka (canoe). They trace their ancestry back to the famous ancestor Paikea, the whale rider from Hawaiki. They are part of Ngati Porou who date back to the legendary explorer Maui.

The story of Ngāti Porou lies in mythology, legend, oral tradition and historical record. Fundamental to the tribe’s history is the godlike figure of Māui-tikitiki-a-taranga. Māui is the ancestor who binds Ngāti Porou descendants to the beginnings of human existence. It was he who fished up the North Island from the ocean depths. This fantastic feat is commemorated in the songs and haka of Ngāti Porou.

They have a haka which celebrates the rising of the sacred mountain Hikurangi from the ocean depth, which goes, ‘Whakarongo ake ki te hīrea waha o Māui’ (Hearken to the faint call of the voice of Māui).

Maui on the left: “My power of authority derives from time immemorial.”

The story of Ngati Porou

NZETC, The Maui Nation

Here’s an interesting documentary from a tribal elder in the East Coast.

Waka Huia 2015 Anaru Kupenga, the tribal master who descends from Māui

MĀUI: He’s the tribal master who descends from the fairy people. Anaru Kupenga (Ngāti Māui) holds the tribal knowledge of his people and his theories could change how we think forever.

Related post

Tolaga Bay Wharf

Tolaga Bay Wharf, Gisborne District

Walk #100 8th January 2023

This is our 100th North Island walk.

We arrived at Tolaga Bay and walked along the old wharf. I’ve been here before on a Vintage Car Rally with my parents in 1972 and on holiday in 1982.

The wharf was built in 1929 and is over 600 metres long. Until the roads went through everything had to go out by ship and that’s why the wharf was built at considerable expense.

Eventually road transport replaced shipping on the East Coast. The last ship to use the wharf was the coaster Kopara in 1966.

Now the wharf is used by fishermen and pedestrians.

All the old buildings have gone although the macrocapas and rail lines are still there.

Walk: Gisborne district 3

Links

Tolaga Bay Wharf

A history of the Tolaga Bay wharf