North Egmont, Taranaki

Walks #165-167, 20th March 2025

There are four short walks around the North Egmont Visitor Centre.

The Nature Walk led on to the Ngatoro Loop Walk, a walk through sub-montane forest called “the Goblin Forest.” The ferns and mosses flourish because of the high rainfall.

Just behind the Visitor Centre is a historic camphouse, which was originally a military barracks during the land wars in the 1860s. It was moved to the site in the 1880s.

After lunch we did the Veronica Loop Track.

Before going uphill we passed the Ambury memorial, a memorial to climber Arthur Ambury who gave his life in 1918 in a heroic attempt to save his climbing partner.

The Veronica Loop track is a well-formed track. It goes up the mountain for half an hour and then there’s a junction for Holly Hut. The return walk via the loop track is harder.

Holly Hut Lookout

At the junction of the Holly Hut track, there’s a lookout ten minutes further up the mountain. We chose not to do it because of the lack of visibility.

There were no birds to be heard on either track, the forests were silent.

The trees are sub-alpine Totara (the red bark) and Kamahi. The trees with spiky fronds are Cabbage trees, the Maori call them ‘Toi.’

Walk: Taranaki 9

History

Te Kāhui Maunga, the ancient people of the mountains

The earliest ancestors of the Taranaki people were Te Kāhui Maunga – the people of the mountains.

Mt Taranaki was named after Rua Taranaki, the first in a line of chiefs.

Te Ara: Taranaki Tribe.

Related Walks

Dawson Falls Walks, Taranaki

Paritutu Rock, New Plymouth

Links

North Egmont Walks

Ambury Monument Walk

NZ Topo Map

Mangatoro Reserve

Walk: #160, 20th Feb 2025

The Mangatoro Scenic Reserve is just down the Ngapaeruru Road, 11 km from Dannevirke along the Weber Road. This is a 8 hectare reserve that contains some good sized kahikatea as well as matai, totara and rimu.

There’s supposed to be a giant Totara, said to be one of the largest in New Zealand. We didn’t see it. The reserve is not well looked after. There were no native birds to be heard, only magpies. The trail had not been maintained. The walk by the stream was overgrown with creepers, forcing us to go back the way we came. There was a tree over one of the paths. There had been no trapping in the reserve but it’s probably too small for the native birds anyway.

The reserve badly needs kaitiake (guardians) and maintenance.

Walk: Hawkes Bay 35

Links

Tararua.com : Mangatoro Scenic Reserve

Broken Hills: Collins Drive

Walk #156, 30th January 2025

This is an old gold mining area. Several tracks zigzag up the hills following an old water race up to Collins Drive, a 500m tunnel much further up the hill. I read on one site that the tunnel was created as an access through steep country. The Dept of Conservation said the tunnel was driven through the hill in a fruitless attempt to find a quartz reef with payable ore.

The walk was hard, a series of big climbs on a very hot day. The tunnel was tthe highlight. The overgrown viewpoints are disappointing.

Walk: Coromandel 20

Related walk

Broken Hills Walks 19th April 2019

Links

Doc: Collins Drive Loop

Doc: Broken Hills area

Edwards Lookout, Kauaeranga Valley, Coromandel

Walk #155, 29th January 2025

The walk is located in the Coromandel Forest Park and Kauaeranga Valley, up the road from the Doc Kauaeranga Visitor Centre. You get a good view of the ranges and Kauaeranga Valley from the lookout.

The forest was silent, I only heard one bird. Doc is using poison instead of traps to control the pests.

Related walks:

Kauaeranga Model Dam

Kauaeranga Valley, Hoffmans Pool

Links

Edwards Lookout

Kauaeranga Visitor Centre

Square Kauri, Coromandel

Walk #154, 29th January 2025

This magnificent Kauri escaped the axe because of its unusually square shaped trunk. It’s a short but steep climb to the tree. There’s a good view of the Coromandel mountain ranges from the platform.

Walk: Coromandel 3

Links

Doc, Square Kauri Tree

Mount Maumaupaki

Tapu-Coroglen Road

Waiau Kauri Grove and Waterfall, Coromandel

Walk #153, 29th January 2025

This is a small grove of tall Kauri that escaped the axe. There’s also an unusual double-trunked Kauri, from two seedlings fused together. And if that isn’t enough beauty, there’s a small waterfall and pool about 500m down the gravel road. You have to drive past it to get to the grove.

Walk: Coromandel 3

Links

Waiau Kauri Grove and Waterfall

Doc – Waiau Falls and Kauri Grove Lookout Walk

Yarndley’s Bush, Waikato

Walk #142, 6th December 2024

This small patch of bush near Te Awamutu is a tiny remnant of the Kahikatea forests that once covered the Waikato Basin. From the sign on the walk I read that today only 3.5% of the forests remain. There are 4922 forest fragments. A few are larger areas, but most are less than 25 hectares.

The only birds in the reserve are the more common tui, fantail and grey warbler.

The Kahikatea, more like a pine tree with its straight white trunk, was named “white pine.” It wasn’t any good for house timber, instead the wood was used for things like butter boxes.

Walk: Waikato 24

Links

Yarndley’s Bush, Te Awamutu

Hinehopu / Hongi’s Track

Walk #140,19th October 2024

This is a two hour return walk between two of the lakes of Rotorua. The walk starts at Korokitewao Bay at Lake Rotoiti and ends at Lake Rotoehu.

In 1823 Hongi Hika attacked Arawa in Rotorua. He had muskets and he was bent on revenge. They dragged their war canoes from Lake Rotoehu across to Lake Rotoira using the track as a portage, and from there through a canal into Lake Rotorua.

Hongi also attacked Te Koutu pa at Lake Okataina.

A small loop track leads to Hinehopu’s tree, a sacred matai at the side of SH30. Hinehopu was hidden here as a baby and it’s where she met her husband to be, Pikiao. (This is from a different time and not related to Hongi Hika’s attack on Rotorua).

Hinehopu’s Matai tree

Korokitewao Bay, Lake Rotoira, where the track begins

Walk: Rotorua 28

Related walk

Lake Okataina

One of Hongi’s war canoes was made into a pataka that is now at Te Papa. See the walk at Papaitonga Scenic Reserve, Levin where the pataka from Te Takinga, Lake Rotoiti ended up before being donated to the Dominion Museum.

Links

Hinehopu/Hongi’s Track

Te Arawa tribes today include Ngāti Pikiao, Tūhourangi and Ngāti Whakaue

On the point on the left hand as the bay is entered, where the trees dip their thirsty branches so low that they touch the water, once stood Te Ari kainga, a village of the ancient lake people …

A Tale From Old Rotoiti

Kaitoke Regional Park, Wellington

Walk # 11th April 2017

The Kaitoke Regional Park lies in the foothills of the Tararua Range near Wellington. It’s a catchment area for nearly half of Wellington’s water supply and the surrounding virgin bush is made up of old rata, beech and rimu trees.

Near the carpark a short side path leads to the site of Rivendell from the Lord of the Rings films.

We visited the park in 2017 but only had time to look at the LOTR location. The bush and river setting is so lovely, I can see why it was chosen for the Rivendell setting. It’s a walk we’ll return to.

Nothing remains of Rivendell except this replica arch.

A map shows the location of Frodo’s bedroom and Elrond’s house. The Pakuratahi river flows near the set before joining the Hutt River.

The tree where Legolas posed for publicity photos.

Besides the LOTR location there are a number of short walks. The main walk, a loop along the Hutt River, begins over a swing bridge from the carpark.

Walk: Wellington 9

Mt Pirongia

Walk #139, 30th Sept 2024

This bush clad mountain is a familiar site when I’m travelling, but I’ve never stopped to explore this intriguing area until now. The book I had with me recommended a climb to the Ruapane lookout, but I decided to skip it in favour of two introductory walks, the Mangakara Nature walk and the Corcoran Road lookout leading to the Ruapane lookout.

I was fortunate to hear a Kokako at the Corcoran Road lookout. The birds have been reintroduced to the area by the Pirongia Te Aroaro o Kahu Restoration Society Inc in partnership with DOC. The pest control area is shown in the bottom right of the picture.

Also this mountain range has the tallest native tree in NZ.

Kaniwhaniwha: Kahikatea tree

I find this area intriguing as Mt Pirongia and Wairenga Reserve near Raglan are associated with the patupaiarehe, a white tribe the Maori saw as fairies because of their pale skin. They were said to have lived on Hihikiwi peak, a pyramid shaped peak on Mount Pirongia. The patupaiarehe also lived on Mount Ngongotaha in Rotorua, but moved west after they were accidentally or deliberately burned out by the Maori.

We stopped for lunch in a park at Pirongia and there in front of us were three pou dedicated to the patupaiarehe. There was also a large polished stone sculpture representing Pirongia Maunga (mountain) and the patupaiarehe children of the mist.

Links

Here’s an interesting video taken at Purekireki marae near Pirongia, where an elder of the Ngaati Taramatau hapu speaks of the patupaiarehe.

Patupaiarehe – Waka Huia explores the existence of the Mist people

He says (18.38) “there was speculation they were our ancestors.” I wouldn’t be surprised given their appearance, there are a few freckled faces and redheads surrounding him.

The true meaning of the name Pirongia-te-aroaro-o-Kahu is “the odour from Kahu’s nether regions.” It is explained between 10:39 and 11:46 of the video. Puawhea was the name given for Mt Pirongia by the Patupaiarehe.

The name of their god was Io Matuakore but his name was never mentioned. Uenuku was used instead. Uenuku is associated with the rainbow. Interestingly, for those who say the Moriori never were in NZ, the Moriori also have a god called Ouenuku.

Whanawhana

In 1894 Hoani Nahe, an elder of the Ngāti Maru people, recalled three sub-tribes of patupaiarehe: Ngāti Kura, Ngāti Korakorako, and Ngāti Tūrehu. Tahurangi, Whanawhana, and Nukupori were important chiefs. Source: TeAra.govt.nz

“It was Whanawhana’s ambition to want a relationship with Maori that he connected with Tawhaitu, the wife of Ruarangi. There was no negativity about these people …” (28.52)

Walk: Waikato 23

Related walks

Mount Ngongotaha, Rotorua

Wairenga, Bridal Veil Falls

Lake Ngaroto, Waikato

Links

MOUNT PIRONGIA (959 METRES) IS AN ANCIENT VOLCANO CENTRAL TO THE 17,000 HECTARE PIRONGIA FOREST PARK THAT, WITH ITS DRAMATIC SKYLINE, IS ONE OF THE MOST DISTINCTIVE FEATURES IN THE WAIKATO DISTRICT. Explore the Mountain