Hinehopu / Hongi’s Track

Walk #140,19th October 2024

This is a two hour return walk between two of the lakes of Rotorua. The walk starts at Korokitewao Bay at Lake Rotoiti and ends at Lake Rotoehu.

In 1823 Hongi Hika attacked Arawa in Rotorua. He had muskets and he was bent on revenge. They dragged their war canoes from Lake Rotoehu across to Lake Rotoira using the track as a portage, and from there through a canal into Lake Rotorua.

Hongi also attacked Te Koutu pa at Lake Okataina.

A small loop track leads to Hinehopu’s tree, a sacred matai at the side of SH30. Hinehopu was hidden here as a baby and it’s where she met her husband to be, Pikiao. (This is from a different time and not related to Hongi Hika’s attack on Rotorua).

Hinehopu’s Matai tree

Korokitewao Bay, Lake Rotoira, where the track begins

Walk: Rotorua 28

Related walk

Lake Okataina

One of Hongi’s war canoes was made into a pataka that is now at Te Papa. See the walk at Papaitonga Scenic Reserve, Levin where the pataka from Te Takinga, Lake Rotoiti ended up before being donated to the Dominion Museum.

Links

Hinehopu/Hongi’s Track

Te Arawa tribes today include Ngāti Pikiao, Tūhourangi and Ngāti Whakaue

On the point on the left hand as the bay is entered, where the trees dip their thirsty branches so low that they touch the water, once stood Te Ari kainga, a village of the ancient lake people …

A Tale From Old Rotoiti

Kaitoke Regional Park, Wellington

Walk # 11th April 2017

The Kaitoke Regional Park lies in the foothills of the Tararua Range near Wellington. It’s a catchment area for nearly half of Wellington’s water supply and the surrounding virgin bush is made up of old rata, beech and rimu trees.

Near the carpark a short side path leads to the site of Rivendell from the Lord of the Rings films.

We visited the park in 2017 but only had time to look at the LOTR location. The bush and river setting is so lovely, I can see why it was chosen for the Rivendell setting. It’s a walk we’ll return to.

Nothing remains of Rivendell except this replica arch.

A map shows the location of Frodo’s bedroom and Elrond’s house. The Pakuratahi river flows near the set before joining the Hutt River.

The tree where Legolas posed for publicity photos.

Besides the LOTR location there are a number of short walks. The main walk, a loop along the Hutt River, begins over a swing bridge from the carpark.

Walk: Wellington 9

Mt Pirongia

Walk #139, 30th Sept 2024

This bush clad mountain is a familiar site when I’m travelling, but I’ve never stopped to explore this intriguing area until now. The book I had with me recommended a climb to the Ruapane lookout, but I decided to skip it in favour of two introductory walks, the Mangakara Nature walk and the Corcoran Road lookout leading to the Ruapane lookout.

I was fortunate to hear a Kokako at the Corcoran Road lookout. The birds have been reintroduced to the area by the Pirongia Te Aroaro o Kahu Restoration Society Inc in partnership with DOC. The pest control area is shown in the bottom right of the picture.

Also this mountain range has the tallest native tree in NZ.

Kaniwhaniwha: Kahikatea tree

I find this area intriguing as Mt Pirongia and Wairenga Reserve near Raglan are associated with the patupaiarehe, a white tribe the Maori saw as fairies because of their pale skin. They were said to have lived on Hihikiwi peak, a pyramid shaped peak on Mount Pirongia. The patupaiarehe also lived on Mount Ngongotaha in Rotorua, but moved west after they were accidentally or deliberately burned out by the Maori.

We stopped for lunch in a park at Pirongia and there in front of us were three pou dedicated to the patupaiarehe. There was also a large polished stone sculpture representing Pirongia Maunga (mountain) and the patupaiarehe children of the mist.

Links

Here’s an interesting video taken at Purekireki marae near Pirongia, where an elder of the Ngaati Taramatau hapu speaks of the patupaiarehe.

Patupaiarehe – Waka Huia explores the existence of the Mist people

He says (18.38) “there was speculation they were our ancestors.” I wouldn’t be surprised given their appearance, there are a few freckled faces and redheads surrounding him.

The true meaning of the name Pirongia-te-aroaro-o-Kahu is “the odour from Kahu’s nether regions.” It is explained between 10:39 and 11:46 of the video. Puawhea was the name given for Mt Pirongia by the Patupaiarehe.

The name of their god was Io Matuakore but his name was never mentioned. Uenuku was used instead. Uenuku is associated with the rainbow. Interestingly, for those who say the Moriori never were in NZ, the Moriori also have a god called Ouenuku.

Whanawhana

In 1894 Hoani Nahe, an elder of the Ngāti Maru people, recalled three sub-tribes of patupaiarehe: Ngāti Kura, Ngāti Korakorako, and Ngāti Tūrehu. Tahurangi, Whanawhana, and Nukupori were important chiefs. Source: TeAra.govt.nz

“It was Whanawhana’s ambition to want a relationship with Maori that he connected with Tawhaitu, the wife of Ruarangi. There was no negativity about these people …” (28.52)

Walk: Waikato 23

Related walks

Mount Ngongotaha, Rotorua

Wairenga, Bridal Veil Falls

Lake Ngaroto, Waikato

Links

MOUNT PIRONGIA (959 METRES) IS AN ANCIENT VOLCANO CENTRAL TO THE 17,000 HECTARE PIRONGIA FOREST PARK THAT, WITH ITS DRAMATIC SKYLINE, IS ONE OF THE MOST DISTINCTIVE FEATURES IN THE WAIKATO DISTRICT. Explore the Mountain

Hakarimata Reserve,Huntly

Walk #134 12th September 2024

Hakarimata Reserve is in the hills between Ngaruawahia and Huntly. The range of hills, Haakari-kai-mata (shortened to Hakarimata) was named after an abundance of food from a feast held between the Waikato people and nearby Ngāti Maniapoto.

The reserve has one of the largest kauri trees in the Waikato which somehow escaped the axe and a beautiful kauri grove. The trees are on the Kauri Loop track.

According to local lore Ngāti Kahupungapunga were said to be the people that populated the area around Ngāruawāhia/Karakariki. The original name of the Hākarimata is a denotion to these people, it originally was called whāwhāpunga – or pungapunga whāwhā – this was one of the many caverns of the Kahupungapunga people. There were remnants of these people who lived in caverns out west towards Te Pahu also.

Walk: Waikato 14

Links

Kauri Loop Track

The Haakarimata Ranges

Puketi Forest

Walk #125, 30th April 2024

The Manginangina Kauri walk is a short walk in a big forest with towering Kauri trees along the boardwalk. The Puketi-Omahuta forest is the second largest in Northland, situated 14 kilometres west of Kerikeri.

The forest is undergoing extensive pest control so they can bring back birds like the kokako.

In early 2000 there were only seven male kokako left. In 2013/2014 kokako were finally brought back to Puketi. Kokako have their own dialect which the female birds had to learn prior to release. It’s not clear whether the population has increased since 2020. I hope so.

2017 Puketi Forest Trust’s battle for kokako leads to breeding success

2020 Kokako in Puketi Forest

Walk: Northland 7

Links

Puketi Forest Trust

Manginangina Kauri Walk

Turehu Voices ‘Heard’ in the Puketi Bush, Northern Advocate, 1948

Clevedon Scenic Reserve

Walk #123, 28th April 2024

We climbed a lot of steps for a view that’s okay but not stunning. The lookout platform is small and the trees are obscuring parts of the vista. The quarry at the bottom is lovely.

The elevation was 702 feet.

Most of the forest was Taraire / broadleaf which produces purple berries the native birds love.

The highlight of the walk was meeting firemen practising for the Sky Tower climb. One of them was wearing his yellow firefighters gear. I know we all appreciate those guys.

The track was busy, it’s a popular walk.

Walk: Auckland 43

Carter Scenic Reserve

Walk #120, 27th March 2024

This small reserve was bequethed by Charles Carter, an early Wairarapa pioneer. The town of Carterton is named after him.

It’s an area of swamp and semi-swamp forest on two old terraces of the Ruamahanga river. The DOC sign noted that some of the swamp loving kahikatea and totara trees have died since the river changed its flow.

We followed a not-very-well signposted track to the Ruamahanga river and leaving the river we followed a track that skirts the bush. The trees are mainly kahikatea, titoki and matai.

It’s all that’s left of the lowland bush that once covered the Wairarapa plain.

Walk: Wairarapa 4

Links

Carter Scenic Reserve

Carter and his Legacy 

Ratapihipihi Reserve, New Plymouth

Walk #113, 1st Jan 2024

This is a beautiful little bush reserve on the outskirts of New Plymouth. Most of the lowland bush has gone except for this small remnant. There was some logging in the past though as there was a saw pit alongside the Nikau loop track.

It’s a bit different from the bush on the flanks of Mt Taranaki. This bush has a sub tropical feel. There are some good info boards along the track.

Walk: Taranaki 10

Links

Zealandia, Wellington

Walk #110 Zealandia, 14th November 2023

Zealandia is an urban sanctuary in the Karori suburb of Wellington, our capital. The bush surrounds a former reservoir. The reserve is home to our rarest birds and Tuatara, a native reptile. Zealandia has been so successful that Kaka, one of our native parrot species, has established itself outside of the pest proof fence. They stopped tagging them when the numbers grew to over 1000.

You can see Tuatara in their natural habitat. A guide gave us a talk on them as we sat and had our lunch. They’re most commonly found at the research area behind the fences.

The entry fee is well worth it. There’s also a cafe.

You can get to the sanctuary from the top of the Cable Car, there’s a free electric shuttle van which travels back and forth.

While we were waiting for the shuttle bus we took a walk in the Botanic Gardens.


Walk #109 Wellington Botanic Gardens, 14th November 2023

This walk started at the top of the cable car. We only had time to have a quick look at the Discovery Garden and Treehouse before heading back up the hill for the bus to Zealandia.

Walk: Wellington 25 & 27

Links

Kaka conflict: conservation icon to pest