This is an important bird sanctuary, having both a wetland and an undeveloped beach, one of the few in the Coromandel. The beach is stunning and Dotterills nest on the dunes. Rare and threatened birds live in the wetland, like the Banded Rail and Fernbird. We saw a Fernbird at the start of our walk through the pines but I didn’t get to film it.
We arrived too late in the day to attempt the 387 metre climb, so we did the Ocean View loop walk instead. If we’d done the Pauanui Summit, it would have taken 1.5 hours. The view would have been totally worth it. We’ll have to leave it for next time.
Paku Peak offers fine views over Tairua, Pauanui, the Slipper and Shoe Islands and beyond to the Alderman Islands.
There’s a short rocky scramble near the top of the peak but nothing too hard. Shell middens lining the path show the site was heavily occupied in its time.
Walk: Coromandel 16
History of the area
The known history is it was a Ngati Hei stronghold, then it succumbed to Ngati Maru invaders in the 17th century, who occupied it until heavily armed Ngapuhi with muskets swept down the coast in the 1820s.
In European times Tairua began as a timber milling town where vast amounts of kauri and other native timber was shipped out from the small port on the Tairua River.
in 1964 the only known artifact linking these shores to Eastern Polynesia, a fish lure, was found in the sand dune behind Tairua Beach. It’s identical to examples from the Marquesas.
Here’s the picture I took at Auckland Museum.
Here’s information from a report commissioned by the Waitangi Tribunal from 1996 for the claim Wai 406:
Wai 686, THE ISLANDS LYING BETWEEN SLIPPER ISLAND IN THE SOUTH-EAST, GREAT BARRIER ISLAND IN THE NORTH AND TIRITIRI-MATANGI·IN THE NORTH-WEST Paul Monin
1.4 The pearl shell lure
“Archeology is a source of infomation on these first migrants. The pearl shell lure found at Tairua, which is identical to examples ..from the Marquesas, is impressive evidence of migration from Eastern Polynesia.”
1.3 The strategic location of the Gulf Coromandel Islands
The Gulf islands lay alongside surely the busiest waterways of pre-European Aotearoa, those connecting Northland with the Waitemata, the Waikato and the Bay of Plenty (and beyond to the East Cape). All canoe traffic between the Bay of Islands and the Bay of Plenty passed close by Great Barrier,Little Barrierand the Mercury and Aldermen’ Islands.
Meanwhile, all canoe traffic .. utilising the porgtges of the Tamaki River, which granted straightforward passage across the isthmus between the Waitemata and·Manukau Harbours and between northern Aotearoa and theWaikato River system, passed close by the inner Gulf islands: Waiheke, Ponui etc. Of this canoe ‘traffic, inevitably all was not friendly. Hence these islands were not places. where inhabitants could expect to be left undisturbed to enjoy long and unchallenged tenure. At times, they would have felt as vulnerable as.the occupants of a motor vehicle, caught stalled on the shoulder of a modem motorway. It was a location that was in no way conducive to a sense of security.
1.4 The pre – ‘waka’ Peoples
Another source of information on these first migrants are the very early traditional stories associated with the Hauraki Gulf, comprehensively compiled recently by Graeme Murdoch, the current Auckland Regional Council historian,.
Perhaps the first people to inhabit the inner Gulf islands were the Tutumaio, so named by Wiripo Potene of the Kawerau hapu of Ngati Kahu. They were displaced by later arrivals, the Turehu, who occupied Motutapu, Motuihe and the adjourning mainland where they were known as Maewao.
“The Maewao people travelled around the islands of the inner Hauraki Gulf between sunset and sunrise in their canoe ‘Te Rehu O te Tai’, gathering kai moana and such foods as seaweed of which they were particularly fond”, Murdoch elaborates. (perhaps these peoples were the Maruiwi, much referred to in local traditions.)
At about this time the Polynesian explorer Toi Te Huatahi visited the islands of the Hauraki Gulf naming them collectively, ‘Nga poito 0 te Kupenga 0 Toi Te Huatahl,’ or ‘the floats of the fishing net of Toi Te Huatahi’. He named Little Barrier, ‘Hauturu 0 Toi’; and the entrance to the Waitemata Harbour, ‘Te Whanganuio Toi’, or ‘the Great Harbour of Toi’.
This is an old gold mining area. Several tracks zigzag up the hills following an old water race up to Collins Drive, a 500m tunnel much further up the hill. I read on one site that the tunnel was created as an access through steep country. The Dept of Conservation said the tunnel was driven through the hill in a fruitless attempt to find a quartz reef with payable ore.
The walk was hard, a series of big climbs on a very hot day. The tunnel was tthe highlight. The overgrown viewpoints are disappointing.
The walk is located in the Coromandel Forest Park and Kauaeranga Valley, up the road from the Doc Kauaeranga Visitor Centre. You get a good view of the ranges and Kauaeranga Valley from the lookout.
The forest was silent, I only heard one bird. Doc is using poison instead of traps to control the pests.
This magnificent Kauri escaped the axe because of its unusually square shaped trunk. It’s a short but steep climb to the tree. There’s a good view of the Coromandel mountain ranges from the platform.
This is a small grove of tall Kauri that escaped the axe. There’s also an unusual double-trunked Kauri, from two seedlings fused together. And if that isn’t enough beauty, there’s a small waterfall and pool about 500m down the gravel road. You have to drive past it to get to the grove.
This is a nice walk on a hill above the town of Coromandel.
This historic pa site is so old even the name is forgotten. There are good 360 degree views over the town. Few signs of the old pa remain.
At one time Coromandel town was a major port serving the region’s gold mining and kauri industries. Now the main industries appear to be mussel farms and tourism. It’s a charming little town.
The walk is at the summit of Kennedy Bay Rd, a narrow unsealed road 7 kms from Coromandel town. The site was used for marine surveillance during WW2. A short, steep track with steps leads to the lookout.
A stainless steel pedestal mounted plate gives the compass points and names of the hills and islands in the Firth of Thames and the Hauraki Gulf, known as ‘Te Moana nui ō Toi’, ‘the great sea of Toi’.
We used to see the hills of the Coromandel from our former residence, so some time was spent trying to figure out where Warkworth and Snells Beach lay in relation to the viewpoint.
The beach is a one km stretch of white sand backed by bush. It’s secluded and unspoiled, highly rated by Lonely Planet and National Geographic.
Unfortunately it was the fifth beach walk of the day and I’d seen four beautiful Coromandel beaches already. It was special but was it worth the scramble over rocks to get there? That’s a question I’m still asking. It is a lovely beach. I hope it stays undeveloped.
The walk starts at William Mangakahia Lagoon Reserve, north end of the beach at Whangapoua which is also beautiful. Cross the stream, walk across the rocky boulders around the headland and follow the path over the saddle into the Nikau palm grove.
Recognised as one of the world’s top wilderness beaches, New Chum beach/Wainuiototo is under threat of development. The catchment behind the beach is privately owned and over the years, there have been several attempts to subdivide.