The Haigh Access Road entrance to the walk at was closed because of Kauri Dieback, so we began the walk at Stillwater. The tide was still going when we reached the beach and we had to remove our shoes and wade through the water – but the day was hot and our feet dried quickly.
We climbed through regenerating bush to a headland before dropping quite steeply to Karepiro Bay, to a restored historic cottage. Dacre Cottage was built in the 1850s by Henry Dacre, son of the retired sea captain Ranulf Dacre, who bought the Weiti block in 1848.
Unfortunately you can’t see inside the cottage because of vandals but there’s a photo of the interior in the link below.
The beach outside the cottage is a nesting site for endangered dotterills. Unfortunately the land next to Karepiro Bay is under development. We could hear the diggers from the cottage. I really fear for these birds, I know from experience from where I live at Snells Beach that the Auckland City council won’t stop development because of our shorebirds. I hope these new home owners don’t have cats. I love cats but not in fragile areas where endangered birds are nesting.
This walk has the best views of Auckland. There’s also a cafe in the historic tea kiosk at 250 Puhi Huia Road that dates back to 1926. The cafe contains an information centre where you can learn something about the maunga (mount) after prehistoric times.
Ngāi Tai ki Tāmaki trace their descent from the Maruiwi. The son of Maruiwi, Tāmaki, went on to lead the people of Te Tini o Maruiwi to settle the land now bearing his name.
Maungawhau (the mountain of the whau plant) is one of Tamaki’s tapu places. Its impressive crater is known as Te Kapua Kai a Mataaho – the food bowl of Mataaho. It was here that ceremonies were held to placate him and prevent the renewed release of the volcanic forces he could influence. Maungawhau was the pa- of Hua Kaiwaka, the grandfather of Kiwi Tamaki. He consolidated the descendents groups of the Isthmus as indicated by his identification as the ‘waka eater’, a metaphor for his gathering together tribes and thus bequeathed his successor a united Waiohua alliance “as numerous as ants”. Source: BALMORAL & SANDRINGHAM HERITAGE WALKS
The Patupairahe or Turehu
Ancient History:“Maungawhau, ‘the mountain of the whau’, a shrub believed to have been growing in the area. The shrub was valued for its cork-like wood, used for floats on fishing nets…Maori legend tells of Maungawhau’s [Mt. Eden’s] first inhabitants, the Patupaiarehe or Turehu, who were skilled in the arts of fishing, hunting, weaving and warfare. It is said that this nocturnal people were destroyed as they lingered building a bridge after dawn” (see The Changing Face Of Mt. Eden, pg. 8, Mt. Eden Borough Council, 1989).
Another early explorer noted: ‘Arriving at the foot of the mountain [Mt. Eden] we assayed its ascent in the course of which my friend evinced a deep interest in traces of Maori fortifications of a past age, which were everywhere in evidence, the escarpments, trenches and what had once been covered ways and store pits though fallen in or overgrown, were yet in a wonderful state of recognition. Several of the stone walls of these fortifications could still be traced with considerable accuracy, although the oldest living Maori could not tell when, or by whom, they were erected.
The Maori race show a wonderful aptitude for field engineering in warfare, and these traces of ancient fortifications, in particular, have often called forth the highest commendation from those most capable of judging such matters. It must have taken a much larger population than was then to be found to man these fortifications effectively, so extensive were they, the whole mountain appearing to be girt by them, line after line, from bottom to top (see Sketches of Early Colonisation in New Zealand -and its Phases of Contact With the Maori Race, (circa late 1840’s), by “Te Manuwiri”, pg. 123, Whitcomb & Tombs).
A battle between two Maori tribes
A Marutuahu delegation duly attended a hui at Puketutu. While there, they also accepted an offer to visit that section of Wai o Hua at Maungawhau (Mt Eden).
On their return journey from Maungawhau, the Marutuahu delegation was ambushed in the bracken fern on the ridge now known as Meadowbank, at a spot near St Johns College. Two high ranking Ngati Maru chiefs were murdered and the a site was named Patutahi (Killed Together).
In revenge the Marutuahu raised a taua (war party) led by Rautao of Ngati Maru, a son and brother of the murdered chiefs, and departed for Tamaki Makaurau.
They sacked Waiheke Island and its surrounds before entering the Tamaki River and destroying pa on the isthmus, including Taurere (Taylor’s Hill), Maungarei (Mt Wellington), Otahuhu (Mt Richmond) and Rarotonga (Mt Smart).
Rautao used the Tauoma portage to cross to the Manukau Harbour and, finding the district almost deserted, continued on to retrieve the hidden waka Puhinui, thwarting attempts by the locals to take it for themselves.
The captured enemy, seeking leniency, confessed it was the people of Maungawhau who were responsible for the ambush and murders. The expedition then headed at pace to Maungawhau.
At Maungawhau Rautao avenged his murdered father and brother by ordering that no quarter be given and no prisoners to be taken or consigned to the hangi. Everything was destroyed and burnt to the ground.
So severe was the destruction that Maungawhau was never again occupied.
Mount Eden offers a wonderful vantage point of the surrounding area. In order to protect the volcanic cone 27 hectares forming the Mt Eden Domain was set aside as crown land in the 1870s. The road to the summit was formed in 1879 utilising prison labour. During the 1920s access was improved with the laying of paths and steps to the summit. In 1927 a tea kiosk was erected on the mountain to serve the many visitors who made the trek up Mt Eden. The kiosk was surrounded by rose gardens planted during the depression of the 1930s. The mountain remains a popular tourist attraction.
Windmill Domain, Corner Mt Eden Road and Windmill Road: The Mt Eden Borough Council’s history of the area notes that when animal bones were scarce the gruesome practice of using human bones collected from prehistoric burial sites was undertaken. The windmill was demolished in 1929.
Whose bones were ground up?
Eden Mill in the Auckland suburb of Onehunga was built in 1843 to grind grain. For over a decade in the 1860’s it was used to grind up the skeletal remains of countless generations of Patupaiarehe into fertiliser. Many tens of thousands of skeletons were removed from burial caves for this purpose and sold to the mill. Maori of the time had no concerns about the fate of these ‘Tangata Whenua’ bones and openly stated to the authorities, “Do as you wish, with these bones, for these are not our people.”
Le Roys Bush (Wai Manawa) is a beautiful complex of reserves with streams and walkways running from Birkenhead Village (Highbury) down to Little Shoal Bay Beach.
There are eight entrances to Le Roys Bush – the main entrance is from 251 Hinemoa Street (down the driveway between 245 and 253 Hinemoa St, Highbury.) It’s opposite the library.
The new viewing platform, Kaimataara o Wai Manawa, is located up on Birkenhead Ave and provides panoramic views of Le Roys Bush, Auckland City and Rangitoto. Kaimatara o Wai Manawa translates to ‘The Lookout of Wai Manawa’.
We parked in Glade Pl, where the faces on the fence were.
Edward Le Roy & family: During the depression years when many men had to be put off from their jobs, Mr Le Roy had such empathy for his valued employees that he paid them to develop the area into what we know now as Le Roy’s Bush.
The valley in which Le Roys Bush lies was known by the early Maori as Te Uruwao (Te Uruao). In early days the Maori people followed an old trail down the ridge where Wernham Place now runs, to the Shore line of the mangrove estuary, Wai-manawa, and out to Little Shoal Bay for the pipi and other fish. This trail was known as the “Maori Pipi Walk” a trail and name which the Scenic Board would like to see reinstated, again giving access from Wernham Place to Little Shoal Bay.
Maungauika/North Head is located in Devonport. This historic defence was placed on the northern headland of the Waitemata Harbour in 1885 to protect Auckland from a feared Russian invasion.
The explosion of Mount Tarawera in 1886 was initially thought to be the beginning of a Russian bombardment.
The underground tunnels and the oldest buildings on the summit, a cookhouse and barracks, still remain from this period.
North Battery
First protected as a reserve in 1972 when it was included in the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park, the North Head Historic Reserve was managed by the Department of Conservation.
DOC no longer administers the reserve. Ownership of Maungauika/North Head Historic Reserve has transferred to Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau (the Tāmaki Collective) as part of Treaty Settlement negotiations.
Self guided walk: North Head’s Self Guided Walk introduces you to a complex of tunnels, guns, searchlight emplacements and otherfortifications. These date from the late 1800s up to the time of the Second World War during which time North Head was a major military installation. The numbers on the map in this brochure correspond to numbered markers on the track. Approximate walking time is one hour.
Ambury Regional Park at Mangere Bridge is right in the heart of Auckland. The park is named after Stephen Ambury who farmed the land and built a homestead for his family in the 1880s.
The park is a working farm. There are farm animals to meet including a handsome pair of Clydesdale horses and a pet lamb enclosure where children can pet the lambs. There’s a bird hide where you can see birds feeding in the estuary, and as you wonder through the fields you’ll see sheep, ducks, domestic fowl and peacocks.
There are beautiful views over the Manukau Harbour.
The narrowest point of land between the Manukau and Waitemata harbours is the isthmus at Otahuhu, called the Otahuhu portage. It was only 1km long and it’s where the Maori dragged their canoes (waka) across the Tamaki isthmus.
Cornwall Park in late winter / early spring. The daffodils are out and the lambs are here. This is a working farm that surrounds One Tree Hill in Auckland City. It was gifted to the people of NZ by Sir Logan Campbell who is buried by the obelisk on the hill. This walk is with my husband and friend when we went to Auckland ciity during level 3 lock down.
The park was only half open, and the only vehicle we saw was security.
While in the park I went to see the Rongo Stone which originally came from Te Arai and belonged to an earlier race of Maori or Mauriori. It had been abandoned and Sir Logan Campbell rescued it.
Cornwall Park
The rongo stone from Te Arai
History of the park: John Logan Campbell, Auckland resident since 1840 gave the park’s 230 acres to a private trust on 10 June 1901. The adjoining Park Maungakiekie had been purchased by the national government in 1845 and since 2012 belongs to Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau Collective. Source: Cornwall Park, Auckland
One Tree Hill‘ featured in a song by the band U2. The song was written in memory of NZ roadie Greg Carroll who became very close friends with lead singer Bono. Carroll was killed in July 1986 in a motorcycle accident in Dublin.
There are lava caves under Maungakiekie, One Tree Hill.
Auckland’s Volcanic Caves : In June 1907 the One Tree Hill Domain Board gave newspapermen an opportunity to visit the lava caves under Maungakiekie, One Tree Hill. Accompanied by the benefactor who gave the parkland to Auckland, Sir John Logan Campbell, officials and the reporters went first to the southern (Onehunga) side of Cornwall Park reserve near where today Sorrento is situated.
Cornwall Park is a working farm that surrounds One Tree Hill in Auckland City. It was gifted to the people of NZ by Sir Logan Campbell who is buried by the obelisk on the hill. This walk is with my friend Meredith on the first weekend after lock down.
Cornwall Park, Auckland
History: John Logan Campbell, Auckland resident since 1840 gave the park’s 230 acres to a private trust on 10 June 1901. The adjoining Park Maungakiekie had been purchased by the national government in 1845 and since 2012 belongs to Ngā Mana Whenua o Tāmaki Makaurau Collective. Source: Cornwall Park, Auckland
Maungakiekie was the stronghold of Kiwi Tāmaki, paramount chief of the Waihua iwi, or tribe, which dominated the area in the early 18th century. His pā housed about 4,000 warriors. You can still see the terracing and kumara pits from the pā today.
Kiwi Tāmaki and his iwi lived in relative peace until tensions with the neighbouring Te Taoū iwi erupted when he and his warriors killed members of Te Taoū at a funeral feast. This led to a battle at Paruroa, now known as Big Muddy Creek, on the Manukau Harbour. Kiwi Tāmaki was killed in the battle, which occurred around 1740.
By the time Europeans came to New Zealand, Maungakiekie pā had been abandoned and the mountain had also become known as Te Tōtara i Āhua, because of the single native tōtara tree that stood at the top.
Maungakiekie is the site of what is claimed to be the world’s largest prehistoric and neolithic earth fort, given that prehistoric and neolithic refer to Pre-European contact in New Zealand. It is located in the Auckland suburb of One Tree Hill.
There are lava caves under Maungakiekie, One Tree Hill. Auckland’s Volcanic Caves : In June 1907 the One Tree Hill Domain Board gave newspapermen an opportunity to visit the lava caves under Maungakiekie, One Tree Hill. Accompanied by the benefactor who gave the parkland to Auckland, Sir John Logan Campbell, officials and the reporters went first to the southern (Onehunga) side of Cornwall Park reserve near where today Sorrento is situated.
‘One Tree Hill‘ featured in a song by the band U2. The song was written in memory of NZ roadie Greg Carroll who became very close friends with lead singer Bono. Carroll was killed in July 1986 in a motorcycle accident in Dublin.
Rangitoto Island, a major Auckland landmark is said to have formed over 600 years ago from a volcanic eruption. It’s a popular destination for a day trip as it’s a short ferry ride across the harbour.
A great view of Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf can be had from Rangitoto’s summit. Although there’s no natural water source on the island there’s abundant bush and birdlife.
I was amazed at how the trees have colonised the volcanic scoria.
Although at first reluctant to buy an island that was ‘all rock’, in 1854 the Crown bought Rangitoto from its Māori owners for £15. In 1890 the island became a public domain and a popular destination for picnickers and boat day trippers.
Baches were built in the 1920’s and 30’s. Most were taken down as the place is a reserve but some have been left. I’m glad these baches were left as they add a bit of character to the island. Leaving a plaque in memorial of a bach is not the same.
The Collins bach is still in use.
Walk: Auckland 55
History
Māori know the island as ‘Nga Rangi-i-totongia a Tamatekapua’ which translates to ‘the day the blood of Tama-te-kapua was shed’. Tama-te-kapua was the chief of the Arawa canoe which arrived around 1350. He fought a major battle with the iwi (tribe) from the Tainui canoe at Islington Bay on Rangitoto which was allegedly caused over adultery, and the fight that followed left Tama-te-kapua’s face bloodied and bruised.
“From Hawaiki they came with “Te Arawa” canoe; Ngatoro-i-rangi was the “Tainui” navigator. When they arrived at Rarotonga the people of that place were urged to come along also, that is to say, the people called Te Aitanga-o-Whakaahu, younger brother of Puanga; but those people said “No”—they would not agree to leave their ancestral home and come hither—so they were left behind; also Rakataura of the “Tainui” crew, because of his thievish habits. Riu-ki-uta was now the navigator, because Tama-te-kapua had taken away on his canoe the “Tainui’s” navigator Nga-toro-i-rangi, also that man’s wife Kea-taketake.”
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The date of 1350 for the arrival of the canoe seems wrong. How can Rangitoto be formed 600 years ago if Tainui and Arawa anchored there and had a fight? The answer is that Rangitoto Island was already formed and inhabited before the arrival of the immigrants from Tainui and Arawa. The inhabitant’s footprints are preserved in the ash of adjacent Motutapu Island. Was the 600 year date given for the formation of Rangitoto Island made to fit the arrival of the Tainui and Arawa canoes?
The Ngai Tai ki Tamaki tribe have clarified the matter. Rangitoto erupted more than once. The footprints preserved in the ash of adjacent Motutapu Island are likely to be from the Maruiwi people.
The Maruiwi
The explorer Toi was there long before the arrival of the Tainui canoe, and when Toi Te Huatahi arrived in Tāmaki he found it to be extensively settled already by the Maruiwi peoples as firstly evident by the many occupation fires visible from his arrival. Hence, Toi called this land Hawaiiki tahutahu, ‘Hawaiiki of Many Fires’.
Peretū was a key Maruiwi ancestor.
“Peretū (pere, dart; tū, pierced) was so named for his father died of a wound in battle caused by a hand-thrown dart, a weapon that was commonly used by these ancient peoples. The headland where Peretū resided is named Ō-Peretū (Fort Takapuna). Peretū had other Pā across Tāmaki, one such in the North being Te Raho-Para-a-Peretū at present day Castor Bay, North Shore, and another in the south known as Te Pounui a Peretū (Ponui Island).
At that time Peretū utilised Rangitoto for the purpose of a “Rāhui-Kākā” (Parrot Preserve), a bird then very abundant on that island. The many Kākā would thrive on the plentiful bush foods of Rangitoto for the island was covered in a forest of Rātā and Pohutukawa trees. For this reason the slopes of Rangitoto are known as “Ngā Huruhuru a Peretū” (The hairs of Peretū) in ancient times and today. Note that this period precedes the second eruption of Rangitoto.
Some of Toi’s crew stayed and intermarried with Peretū’s people. Uika, Toi’s cousin, was one who stayed in Tāmaki and intermarried. Uika settled at present day North Head, known thereafter as Maunga-a-Uika or Maungauika.
Also in these ancient times was the name Ngā Pona Toru a Peretū (The three knuckles of Peretū) which refers to the three summits of Rangitoto. Peretū had three fingers on each hand; this was not a deformity, but a sign of his descent from a godly ancestor.“
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