Whitianga Pa, Coromandel

Walk #146, 28th January 2025

Whitianga Pa is just a short ferry ride across the channel from the main shopping centre. At one time the pa was ringed with stone terraces and strongly fortified. The historic wharf which is still in use was built in 1837 from the stones.

The pa was once occupied by Ngati Hei but in the mid eighteenth century it was ransacked by a war party of Ngai te Rangi. It was long burnt and abandoned when Captain Cook visited Whitianga Rock in November 1769.

Cook was greatly impressed by the pa, he said, “the Situation is such that the best Engineer in Europe could not have choose’d a better for a small number of men to defend themselves against a greater, it is strong by nature and made more so by Art”

You can still see a defensive ditch, the post holes in the rock and the middens.

Walk: Coromandel 12

Notes

Ngati Hei date back to the arrival of the arrival of the Arawa waka in 1350 but this site may be older than that. From the placenames people of Maui and Kupe were there before them …

The Māori names of Hauraki places tell the story of discovery and settlement, beginning with the exploits of the mythical Māui.

Coromandel Peninsula: Te Tara-o-te-Ika a Māui (the jagged barb of Māui’s fish), or Te Paeroa-a-Toi (Toi’s long mountain range)

Whitianga: Te Whitianga-a-Kupe (Kupe’s crossing)

Source: Te Ara Story: Hauraki–Coromandel region

There is a petroglyph at a ritual site in nearby Flaxmill Bay. I didn’t see it but I know it was there from the archaeologist’s report AINZ32.4.182-192Furey.pdf, T11/109. Flaxmill Bay is situated between Cooks Beach and Ferry Landing.

It consists of a face in relief on the edge of a small pool within a stream bed. Together with
another small pool, these were cut off from the main water flow by a diversion channel.

Image below: Is this Maori? This ivory reel necklace from Whitianga is at Auckland Museum. Similar necklaces, consisting of cotton reel shaped pieces held together by cord, were found at Wairau Bar near Blenheim in the South Island.

Links

Incised stone at the high tide level of a nearby beach at Whitianga.
The question remains… Ancient??? or contemporary?

Source: David de Warenne

——————————-

DOC, Whitianga Rock

Hinehopu / Hongi’s Track

Walk #140,19th October 2024

This is a two hour return walk between two of the lakes of Rotorua. The walk starts at Korokitewao Bay at Lake Rotoiti and ends at Lake Rotoehu.

In 1823 Hongi Hika attacked Arawa in Rotorua. He had muskets and he was bent on revenge. They dragged their war canoes from Lake Rotoehu across to Lake Rotoira using the track as a portage, and from there through a canal into Lake Rotorua.

Hongi also attacked Te Koutu pa at Lake Okataina.

A small loop track leads to Hinehopu’s tree, a sacred matai at the side of SH30. Hinehopu was hidden here as a baby and it’s where she met her husband to be, Pikiao. (This is from a different time and not related to Hongi Hika’s attack on Rotorua).

Hinehopu’s Matai tree

Korokitewao Bay, Lake Rotoira, where the track begins

Walk: Rotorua 28

Related walk

Lake Okataina

One of Hongi’s war canoes was made into a pataka that is now at Te Papa. See the walk at Papaitonga Scenic Reserve, Levin where the pataka from Te Takinga, Lake Rotoiti ended up before being donated to the Dominion Museum.

Links

Hinehopu/Hongi’s Track

Te Arawa tribes today include Ngāti Pikiao, Tūhourangi and Ngāti Whakaue

On the point on the left hand as the bay is entered, where the trees dip their thirsty branches so low that they touch the water, once stood Te Ari kainga, a village of the ancient lake people …

A Tale From Old Rotoiti

City of Rotorua

Walk 59, 23 Jan 2021

The walk starts at the very Edwardian Government Gardens. From there, we walked to the lakefront, then Ohinemutu and finally Kurau Park. We walked back through town and finished at the Princes Gate.

The highlight of the walk for me is the window at St Faith’s Church, Ohinemutu, of Jesus walking on the water wearing a feathered cloak. The soldier’s graves next to the church are buried above ground because it’s a thermal area.

Ohinemutu is a Ngati Whakaue settlement. They’re an Arawa tribe. The 1887 carved meeting house of Ngati Whakaue is named for the captain of the Te Arawa canoe, Tama-te-Kapua.

Rotorua is the town my husband considers his hometown. His family moved there from the USA when he was twelve so the walk was a trip down memory lane for him.

Walk: 22 Rotorua City

Links

The Bath House Story

Ohinemutu St Faith’s Church and Tamatekapua Meeting House

Rotorua Lakes Council walkways

Lake Tarawera, Rotorua

Walk 49, 31st October 2020

Lake Tarawera walk to rock paintings

There are two walks from the landing, the talk to the right takes you to the place where Green Lake flows into Lake Tarawera. The walk to the left takes you to Maori Rock paintings. The sign by the Tuhourangi iwi is very faded but this is what it says:

The rock art was restored by archeologist Trevor Hoskings. In 2009 Trevor Hosking, of Taupō, received the Queen’s Service Medal for services to the conservation of historic places.  Mr Hosking had been actively involved in the restoration and protection of historic places in the Taupō area for more than 50 years.  He worked to ensure the protection and restoration of local sites of significance, including the Armed Constabulary Hall, burial caves on Motutaiko Island, Rauhoata Cave, the Napier/Taupō Armed Constabulary Redoubts, the Te Porere Redoubt, the Tarawera rock drawings, and the Opepe Canoe. Source: Turangi Museum

The Tarawera rock art is mentioned in his book A Museum Underfoot, page 137-140.

Walk: Rotorua 28

Lake Tarawera

Links

Rock Art

Rock art in New Zealand is generally associated with the limestone shelters of the South Island, but already the New Zealand Archaeological Association lists 140 rock art sites in the North Island, most in the central plateau region … There are differences. The North Island has more carvings, the South Island more drawings. Abstract motifs dominate in the North, more figurative forms in the South.

And there are regional variations. In Tokoroa and Rotorua, drawings and carvings of waka are common—the best known being the vivid armada drawn in red on the edge of Lake Tarawera—while in Taranaki, the spiral, circles and other “classic” Maori motifs predominate.

Set in stone, NZGeo.com


The Pink and White Terraces

The famed Pink and White Terraces, an eighth wonder of the world, were buried by the Tarawera eruption.

The Pink and White Terraces by Carl Kahler, painting is hanging at the Chateau Tongariro.

The Pink and White Terraces: Sound Archives: the Mt Tarawera Eruption

The Tarawera Eruption

Mount Tarawera in Eruption, June 10, 1886, from Wairoa

A phantom canoe was believed to have been seen by tourists at Lake Tarawera eleven days before Mount Tarawera erupted in 1886.

The Eruption of Tarawera (2000) Part 1

Te Wairoa

The Buried Village, Te Wairoa

The village of Te Wairoa was established in 1848 by Christian missionaries as a model village. It was buried in the 1886 eruption.

This stone pataka was one of the first structures to be excavated. It was discovered by Vi Smith, the landowner while they were having a picnic by the Te Wairoa stream.

Stone pataka at the Buried Village, Te Wairoa

The pataka is much older than the village structures and was probably built by the first people to live in the lakes area. See my post on Lake Okataiana.

There’s another stone pataka on the south-east shore of Green Lake, near the former village of Epiha.

Stone pataka at Green Lake

The Maori record that the original people, Ngati Ruatamore, were exterminated at Te Wairoa.

The carving below in the Buried Village museum is also much older. As you can see from the diorama, Lake Okataina is in the same area.

Papamoa Hills Regional Park

Walk 20, 28 Oct 2019

We walked uphill through grassland to a pa site at the summit of the Papamoa Hills Regional Park, a climb of 224 metres.  There are sweeping views of the hills and coast from Te Puke and Papamoa to Mount Maunganui.

Papamoa Hills panorama

We saw a very tame quail sitting on a fence post, he was obviously used to walkers.


Papamoa Hills Regional Park

“Papamoa Hills Cultural Heritage Regional Park (Te Rae o Papamoa) includes a number of important pre-European archaeological features. The sites have significance to three iwi (Maori tribal groups) – Ngaiterangi, Ngati Pukenga (of Mataatua) and Waitaha A Hei (of Te Arawa). There are at least seven pa sites (forts) in the park, and others can be seen in the surrounding landscape.” Source: 100% Pure NZ 

Links

This bowl was found 1.5m underground in Tauranga in the 1890’s on a slope of Maungatawa. Yes, 1.5m underground in fern country. Discovered when someone was digging a post hole. Why that far down? It wasn’t buried under a tree like Maori often did with something they feared or didn’t know… ie the Korotangi. Many odd and non-Maori items have been found buried way down below any 800-100 year old Maori occupation layer.
Source: Tangata Whenua – Raivavae

Ancient village unearthed at Papamoa roundabout

Pāpāmoa (c. 1460-1700)

NZ History, Pāpāmoa

Rangitoto Island

Walk 8: Rangitoto Island, 17 November 2018

Rangitoto Island -Skytower1

Click here for the video

Rangitoto Island, a major Auckland landmark is said to have formed over 600 years ago from a volcanic eruption.  It’s a popular destination for a day trip as it’s a short ferry ride across the harbour.

A great view of Auckland and the Hauraki Gulf can be had from Rangitoto’s summit.  Although there’s no natural water source on the island there’s abundant bush and birdlife.

Rangitoto panorama -2

I was amazed at how the trees have colonised the volcanic scoria.

Although at first reluctant to buy an island that was ‘all rock’, in 1854 the Crown bought Rangitoto from its Māori owners for £15. In 1890 the island became a public domain and a popular destination for picnickers and boat day trippers.

Baches were built in the 1920’s and 30’s.  Most were taken down as the place is a reserve but some have been left.  I’m glad these baches were left as they add a bit of character to the island.  Leaving a plaque in memorial of a bach is not the same.

The Collins bach is still in use.

Walk: Auckland 55

History

Māori know the island as ‘Nga Rangi-i-totongia a Tamatekapua’ which translates to ‘the day the blood of Tama-te-kapua was shed’. Tama-te-kapua was the chief of the Arawa canoe which arrived around 1350. He fought a major battle with the iwi (tribe) from the Tainui canoe at Islington Bay on Rangitoto which was allegedly caused over adultery, and the fight that followed left Tama-te-kapua’s face bloodied and bruised.

Source: DOC, History of Rangitoto Island

The account of adultery agrees with what is written in the Journal of the Polynesian Society: TAINUI VOYAGES FROM HAWAIKI TO RAROTONGA. 

“From Hawaiki they came with “Te Arawa” canoe; Ngatoro-i-rangi was the “Tainui” navigator.  When they arrived at Rarotonga the people of that place were urged to come along also, that is to say, the people called Te Aitanga-o-Whakaahu, younger brother of Puanga; but those people said “No”—they would not agree to leave their ancestral home and come hither—so they were left behind; also Rakataura of the “Tainui” crew, because of his thievish habits. Riu-ki-uta was now the navigator, because Tama-te-kapua had taken away on his canoe the “Tainui’s” navigator Nga-toro-i-rangi, also that man’s wife Kea-taketake.”

——-

The date of 1350 for the arrival of the canoe seems wrong. How can Rangitoto be formed 600 years ago if Tainui and Arawa anchored there and had a fight? The answer is that Rangitoto Island was already formed and inhabited before the arrival of the immigrants from Tainui and Arawa. The inhabitant’s footprints are preserved in the ash of adjacent Motutapu Island. Was the 600 year date given for the formation of Rangitoto Island made to fit the arrival of the Tainui and Arawa canoes?

See my page on The First People.

The Ngai Tai ki Tamaki tribe have clarified the matter. Rangitoto erupted more than once. The footprints preserved in the ash of adjacent Motutapu Island are likely to be from the Maruiwi people.

The Maruiwi

The explorer Toi was there long before the arrival of the Tainui canoe, and when Toi Te Huatahi arrived in Tāmaki he found it to be extensively settled already by the Maruiwi peoples as firstly evident by the many occupation fires visible from his arrival. Hence, Toi called this land Hawaiiki tahutahu, ‘Hawaiiki of Many Fires’.

Peretū was a key Maruiwi ancestor.

“Peretū (pere, dart; tū, pierced) was so named for his father died of a wound in battle caused by a hand-thrown dart, a weapon that was commonly used by these ancient peoples. The headland where Peretū resided is named Ō-Peretū (Fort Takapuna). Peretū had other Pā across Tāmaki, one such in the North being Te Raho-Para-a-Peretū at present day Castor Bay, North Shore, and another in the south known as Te Pounui a Peretū (Ponui Island).

At that time Peretū utilised Rangitoto for the purpose of a “Rāhui-Kākā” (Parrot Preserve), a bird then very abundant on that island. The many Kākā would thrive on the plentiful bush foods of Rangitoto for the island was covered in a forest of Rātā and Pohutukawa trees. For this reason the slopes of Rangitoto are known as “Ngā Huruhuru a Peretū” (The hairs of Peretū) in ancient times and today. Note that this period precedes the second eruption of Rangitoto.

Some of Toi’s crew stayed and intermarried with Peretū’s people. Uika, Toi’s cousin, was one who stayed in Tāmaki and intermarried. Uika settled at present day North Head, known thereafter as Maunga-a-Uika or Maungauika.

Also in these ancient times was the name Ngā Pona Toru a Peretū (The three knuckles of Peretū) which refers to the three summits of Rangitoto. Peretū had three fingers on each hand; this was not a deformity, but a sign of his descent from a godly ancestor.

Source: Ngai Tai ki Tamaki, Tipua, Tūrehu and Patupaiarehe


Links

Rangitoto Island

Auckland: The people of the ocean